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Supas of Batanes: The History Behind the Ivatan Turmeric Rice
Supas is the iconic turmeric rice of the Ivatan people, a delicacy where ordinary rice is cooked and then sautéed in garlic, slices of fresh turmeric pulp, and pork, the result being a fragrant, golden dish as vibrant in color as it is in flavor.
Long before rice became widespread in Batanes, the Ivatans were already cultivating turmeric as a staple crop, not merely as a spice, but as a medicinal and culinary pillar of everyday life. When rice eventually reached the islands, Supas was born from that simple, ingenious union: turmeric and rice, grown and eaten by the same hands that tended the same soil for generations.
Supas is wholly attributed to the Ivatan people, the indigenous inhabitants of Batanes, the northernmost province of the Philippines. It is known by a different name on the island of Itbayat, where it is called balencyana, a reflection of how deeply embedded the dish is across all three inhabited islands of the archipelago.
To prepare Supas, pork is fried in its own fat, then garlic, onion, and turmeric are sautéed before the rice and water are added to simmer and cook. It is often served during fiestas and family gatherings, popular not just for its taste, but also because turmeric is believed to have health benefits.
Supas is best enjoyed paired with Luñis; the Ivatan version of preserved pork adobo, cooked slowly with rock salt and stored in its own lard, alongside grilled dibang (flying fish) or freshly caught payi (lobster), traditionally eaten by hand in true Ivatan fashion.
Ivatan cooking developed out of a need to preserve food in Batanes’ unpredictable weather, with traditional recipes focusing on the inherent taste of each ingredient rather than heavy sauces. Supas is the perfect expression of that ethos — simple, honest, and deeply nourishing. A beloved symbol of Ivatan identity, it continues to grace every fiesta table and traveler’s plate across the islands, carrying with it the quiet resilience of the people who created it.
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